38/100 - Late War American Shermans

I have been playing around with the airbrush over the last few weeks.  I started to work on a few more American Shermans that I had from the Tanks! game.  The colours and camouflage pattern is not historically accurate.  I wanted to go with a more olive drab look instead of the usual dark green of my British tanks.  So I grabbed some paint that I had and played around with it.

The first attempt at airbrushing the tanks did not work out.  I do not feel that I am using hyperbole when I say it was the worst thing I have ever painted.  No pictures exist of this monstrosity.  In fact the only proof of its existence is my confession here.

I went back and gave it another try.  I played around with the trigger limiter (I don't know if that is what it is called, that part of an airbrush that limits how far back you can pull the trigger).  I had much more success on the second go (and was able to save the first abomination). 

I have had some dry weathering pigment for a few years.  My next plan is to learn how to use it and weather the tanks a bit. 

I also made up a couple of more destroyed tank markers.  I tried a different method to make them, and it was a lot easier and faster.  I then used the airbrush to paint them (which also turned out better).  I based them in red then sprayed grey over top to give the suggestion that there was a fire.

I am going to work on a few Soviet T-34s for Tanks! this week as well as an old piece of Warhammer terrain to practice with the airbrush some more. 

 Kevin

United States M4A3 (late) Sherman

I painted up one of my US M4A3 Shermans that came in the "Tanks" box this weekend.  Part of what I wanted to do this year with the Lords of War Hobby Challenge was to push my self with the level of my painting.  I have not really changed or tried any new techniques in years.

I picked up the Battlefront Miniatures "Colours of War" when it first came out.  It is a very nice book.  So for this tank I wanted to try a different brush skill, layering.  Usually when I paint I do the same procedure; I base coat in a darker shade, add a wash to create some contrast, then 2-3 highlight layers (usually by adding a white or bone colour to the base coat colour).

With the layering technique that is instructed in the "Colours of War", you first paint a base coat.  Then instead of building up your highlights by mixing two paints, you go straight to the brighter colour.  However you add lots of water to it.  Now with the pigment very diluted you apply multiple thin layers, working your way up to the highest part of the model where the light would be hitting it.  The trick is multiple coats, with small brush strokes.

I definitely have to try it more to make it a bit smoother.  I did a final solid grey highlight on the edges after I was finished with the layering.  I found the contrast not as transitional as I wanted in the end, so I applied a thin coat of Agrax Earthshade mixed with Biel-Tan Green wash.

Over all I am happy with the result.  I am looking forward to practicing this technique more.

Here is the US Sherman next to one of my drybrushed/washed Canadian Shermans

Kevin

Shermans are Operational

I have been working on 2 new Sherman platoons for my Flames of War Canadian force.  One down and one to go.

The Sherman was the second most produced tank during World War 2, next to the Soviet Union's T-34.  It was developed by the United States and through the "Lend Lease" program, used throughout the Commonwealth Forces and even the Soviets. 

Sherman with M3 75mm

The Sherman was comparable to early German Panzer tanks.  However with the thinner armour plating and a less powerful gun, the Shermans were far outmatched against the heavier German Panthers and Tiger tanks.

Firefly with OQF 17pdr

The main armament for the Shermans in the Commonwealth was the M3 75mm gun.  However the Sherman Firefly was rolled out to help add extra punch to allied tank platoons.  The Firefly had the same Sherman chassis but had a much stronger gun.  The British attached the powerful OQF (Ordinance quick-firing) 17pdr gun to help punch through German armour.

I used a different style for these new tanks (compaired to my old ones).  I used washes initially to create shadows.  Then drybrushed to blend it in.  However the matte varnish spray really darkened the green and ironically made it a little more shinny.

I wanted the tanks to pop a little so I used the late war decal pack.  I did some research on tank markings and what they meant.  Most allied tanks had several stars on them, these were often smaller ones on the side and rear and a larger one up front or on the the top of the tank (to identify to aircraft).

The left side of the tank has the regiment icon (red with a 51 symbolized senior regiments).  The right side is the army division (in my case the Canadian 4th Armoured).

Vehicles also had serial numbers.  Ones starting with a T were tanks (while halftracks were Z etc).

Vehicles also often had a bridge classification number painted up front.  These numbers represented what vehicles could cross which bridges.  The lower the number the lighter the vehicle.  While a truck may have been rated as a 5, a Sherman was a 27. 

Second Squad is underway

Kevin